BALI UPDATE #049 - 17 JUNE 1998

Taking full advantage of modern technology, this edition of BALI UPDATE is being sent to you from on board a ship sailing north of the island of Sumbawa. Like Bali, the islands of Sumbawa, Lombok and Komodo are as beautiful as ever and, most importantly, as peaceful as ever. If there is any change to report from this visit to Western and Eastern Nusa Tenggarra when compared to my many past visits - it is the eagerness of the people to welcome back visitors too long absent from the villages and cities. Like the Balinese, the people of the islands east of our island have continued to live a very peaceful existence over the past weeks and months and find it hard to comprehend why foreign tourists might ever consider it unsafe to visit their islands.

Ganesha Gallery is the brainchild of Rowe and Four Seasons Regional Vice President Neil Jacobs. The idea blossomed in six months, with a small investment of about US$50,000 in structural renovations and minimal operation expenses. The resort has reaped many-fold its investment in recognition and exposure. "The space is dedicated to art appreciation rather than commercialism," says the resort's public relations director Julia Gajcak. "Among our goals was to contribute to the island and the community, sharing the message of art. We are doing the right thing by creating another level of understanding."

Ganesha Gallery brings together and highlights a wealth of Indonesian talent-with an emphasis on Balinese artists-and a core of artists from around the world whose work is influenced by Bali. "Encouraging local artistic talent and promoting Indonesian art abroad, Ganesha Gallery builds a foundation to enrich the local community and the art lovers from around the world," says gallery manager Ambar Bediaci Arini. "This showcase gives artists a venue to share their understanding and the perspective of life on this magical island."

"We actively seek promising Balinese and Indonesian artists, providing them with a venue to exhibit work and make direct contact with a wider international market," says Arini. "While we emphasize helping young and little known artists, we also serve better known ones, foreigners whose work has been inspired by Bali and traditional arts, both antique and contemporary. Publishing high-quality catalogues provides the artists with additional tools to further their careers," she adds.

Exhibit openings have become sought after local social event, attracting Bali residents and art lovers from throughout Indonesia and beyond. Most art purchases at Ganesha Gallery are by foreign guests. "These are celebrities, CEOs and collectors from around the world," says Rowe. "Pieces we exhibit wind up in Tel Aviv, Los Angeles, New York and Wiesbaden, in corporate offices and private collections." Indonesian collectors and galleries have snapped up works from international artists such as Yuri Gorbachev.

There are three companies in Bali offering cycling tours. I chose Adventure Tours and boarded their door-to-door shuttle bus, with reluctance, at 9 am for the northbound journey to the river-side reception centre where I met my cycle-mates for the day. We ferried still further up the gentle gradation of Bali's interiors, northwest of Ubud, to the tiny village of Glogor. Actually, we weren't in any village I could find on a map, but rather at a crossroads which seemed in the middle of nowhere.

One of the first and largest villages we encountered was stacked on a steep slope, fortunately downhill. Neat, densely packed homes with corrugated tin rooftops hugged high along sharp zig zags in the road. The villagers peered down upon us as they went quietly about their daily chores. Shy children leaned out from doorways, venturing a wave or the inevitable "hallo mister!". An occasional mangy mongrel dog made a bold half-hearted attempt to bark and chase at flashing feet, but they were never a genuine threat.

Still further, beyond another small village, there was a short, steep climb. We tackled the hill with a vengeance until one heavy push by a rather tall and large pedaller broke a bicycle chain. No worries, said guide Made. A quick seat adjustment and a swap and the rider was back in business. Made gave new meaning to "push bike" as he dangled his feet on the ground, pushing the broken bike along. With little effort, he kept stride with us unimpaired bikers, underscoring the angle of our descent.

We felt we had just hit our stride when we returned to the Adventure Reception Centre, a full 17 km and one hour into our venture. But, this was the lunch stop, so we acquiesced and pulled in for our picnic baskets of sandwiches, fried chicken, fresh green salad, fruit, juice and more water. Here we were joined by the second half of our group-six young men who had brought their own bikes. They had covered the same 17 km we had but in about 15 minutes. These guys were serious.

Gentle upward incline and the battle of the gears kept me struggling this last stretch. A quick coast down to a fishing tank and public baths made a good place to stop and gain strength for a steep and long uphill climb to Sangeh Monkey Forest. About this time, I was glad I hadn't returned to the start point, as my energy began to wane. Through the village of Sangeh, across a small artery road and finally we were at the terminus. Parking the bikes we strolled across to the gates of the 17th century Pura Bukit Sari temple.

This is home of the descendants of monkey god Hanoman's simian troops. Legend has it that they fell off of Mount Mahameru and landed here when trying to crush the evil demon king Rawana. Once a fan of monkeys, my days in Bali have left me with bitten fingers and stolen sunglasses, so I was not looking forward to yet another ape encounter. However the Sangeh monkeys, sated by the handouts from many tourists, were mild-mannered this day. Other than benignly investigating a few shirt pockets, and graciously accepting peanuts and fried tapioca chips, they were obese but charming. Especially the wrinkly one-week-old clinging to his mother.

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